Pulau Pinang – Day 2 Turf and Surf

Our touring day on Penang Island included a ride up the Swiss-modeled funicular railway to the top of Penang Hill. An early attempt in 1906 to provide rail service from the humid lowlands to the cooling breezes of Penang Hill was unsuccessful. Another attempt at rail service to the top of Penang Hill, also known as Bukit Bendara (Flag Hill), was organized by the Straits Settlement government after the First World War. That service opened in October 1923 and was an immediate success. There have been a few hitches over the years, though. Most recently, in April 2005, a load of tourists was trapped on the hill for three hours when a brake malfunctioned. However, great attention is paid to safety and the maintenance of the rail service.

On busy holiday weekends, tickets must be purchased in advance. An attendant in the waiting room at the base of the hill ushers passengers at their appointed time into one of the five compartments of the rail car. The ride to the top of Bukit Bandera takes 30 minutes and requires a change of trains midway. From the 2,750 ft. peak one has a marvelous panoramic view of Georgetown.

Much like the days of British rule when hills stations conjured up images of health, relaxation and fun, today’s Bukit Bendera is home to several hotels, eating areas, attractions, small shops as well as a mosque and Indian temple. Standing at the summit one still gets the feeling sought in the old British days of an escape from the heat and teeming masses of the lowlands.

From Bukit Bendera we headed to the north island beach resort of Batu Ferringhi. Thirty years ago when Jay visited Batu Ferringhi on the recommendation of a Peace Corps worker, he found long stretches of lonely beach. He remembered visiting Lone Pine Hotel and that became our last destination for the day.

The once long stretches of lonely beach are now occupied by sprawling upscale multi-story hotels and resorts. But the Lone Pine Hotel was still there pretty much in its original low two story structured form. We walked the beach as lovers hand-in-hand as the sun slowly set. A young girl road a horse along the beach, led by a handler and we saw someone parasailing. The serenity of the moment, however, was sacrificed to the roar of rented four wheelers by a father son duo peeling up and down the beach.

Our dinner meal at the al fresco restaurant called The Bungalow at the Lone Pine was just okay. The service was below average. The highlight of the evening was Helen, who had changed from her touring garb to one of her new batik wraps.

We sipped drinks in the cool evening shore breeze and gave thanks to the wonderful life we have. More adventure awaited us as we planned to head back to KL the next day, rent a car and drive the Malacca.