The Gods are Back in Town

Last year about this time, giant bamboo scaffolding rose from the ground at the corner of our street and Airport Road. Colored lights outlining the image of a deity soon appeared. At that time we had no idea that a multi-day festival was about to take place in our colony. This year once we spied stacks of bamboo, we knew the gods were back in town.

This festival appears to be local to our colony. Signage wishing a “Happy Phoo Palaki” revealed no understanding to us. Google, as well as Jay’s office mates, were equally stumped over the meaning of the festival. Not everything enjoyed is understood.

Last year’s witness of the festival gave us a general outline of affairs. The key focus is the gathered idols from the local temples. The idols are heavily decorated with flowers. Pooja (worship) is offered. From early dawn to late darkness recorded devotional music is broadcast from large speakers. During these religious ceremonies, we maintain a respectful distance. When Bollywood tunes are broadcast, we engage.

Last year we mingled with the Bollywood entertained crowd. Our crowd-pleasing antics of a 1-2-3 cha cha netted us an invitation by the organizers to dance on stage to the delight of the colony residents. This year we watched from afar. Our attention was on packing for our departure from India in a few days.

We put aside our packing when the evening’s fireworks had exploding clusters of red, green and white pyrotechnics bursting at near eye level from our bedroom balcony. Resistance was useless. Soon we were mingling on the streets.

A carnival-like atmosphere had invaded the streets. Balloons, plastic toys, bracelets and other trinkets were sold by street vendors. The main event came around midnight when the idols were paraded on their colorfully lit chariots.

A palaki or pallaki is a poled, suspended chair used to carry maharajas or sahibs. We suspect Happy Phu Palaki is related. It is a tradition at Hindu temples to employ a chariot in which the idol is transported. The famed stone chariot of the ancient temple complex of Hampi is a good example of the deep roots of this tradition.

Once the idols were in their chariots, devotees gathered with drums and horns. The drumming is frenetic as is the responsive gyrations of the faithful. You can feel the drum reverberations in the air pressing about your body. It is a spectacle without equal. The drumming, dancing and parading of chariots continued into the night. As the chariots moved down the narrow streets of the colony, attendants raised overhead electrical wires with bare hands (egad!) or bamboo poles to allow the chariots to pass. The electric flow to our apartment that evening was not surprisingly rather spotty. As dawn broke, we could hear the drumming, albeit more subdued, return to our lives. The chariots had finished their evening tour of the colony. Having come full circle the crowds dispersed, the chariots were stowed and the idols returned to their temples. We are sure they will be back next year. Until then, Happy Phu Palaki. We must return to our packing.