Mysore’s Great Palace

“Have you been to Mysore?” is a question we’ve frequently been asked by locals and expats alike. Evidently, when one is in the Indian state of Karnataka, one goes to Mysore. So on to Mysore we ventured. Mysore is one Karnataka’s largest cities and home to the Maharaja’s Palace. This enormous palace was constructed in the early 1900’s following the destruction by fire of the old wooden palace in 1897.

We hired a tour guide named Babu to help us navigate the sprawling complex. Babu indicated that the palace was designed to pay homage to the three main religions of the area. Distinctive Hindu, Christian and Islamic architectural features are included in the structure. Islamic red minarets stand in the foreground of the exterior of the building with a towering Christian gold-capped dome dominating the center of one of the building’s wings. Hindu architecture abounds in the interior of the building.

Unfortunately “No Photography or Videography” was allowed inside the palace.

The word “art” can only approximate the grandeur of the rooms, scale of the open atrium, the ornate gold-trimmed pillars and the quirky nature of the many wall-sized paintings that lined hallways. These hallway artworks were painted in a style that provided a three-dimensional aspect. As you walk past a painting while maintaining your gaze at it, the painting seems to follow you. For example, a long line of horsemen sporting long handlebar moustaches riding directly towards you will “move” to form a long horizonal line across the painting. Amazing! This style of painting was quite the rage at the palace. The eyes and footwear of former maharajas turned and followed you as did the painted eyes of many Hindu deities.

The other noted feature of the palace was the Elephant Gate. Built in the opening era of automobiles, the Elephant Gate welcomed the Maharaja as he was driven in his car back to the palace. The real spectacle of the Elephant Gate, however, is during festival time, especially Navarati, the celebration of good over evil, when elephants decked out in elaborate coverings parade in the town and enter the palace through these enormous portals.

The palace is also noted for its light show. Thousands of lights illuminate the palace in the evening, providing a spectacular sight.

Mysore has a centuries-old history that runs from being the ruling center of a vast empire and, not surprisingly, to defeat by warring factions. Deep in the history of Mysore is the mythological rule of the demon-king Mahishasura. The legend states that prayers offered to Lord Siva were answered and Lord Siva’s wife, the Goddess Parvathi who took birth as Chamundeswari, or Durga Devi, killed the demon-king. After the slaying, she took up residence atop Chamundi Hill where a temple has been built for her worship.

More on Chamundi Hill in another blog.