Sunday, February 11, 2007

Sri Lanka – A Lot of Galle

From the interior gem mines in Ratnapura, we drove to the southwestern coastal city of Galle (pronounced Gaul). This port city was an important trading center in pre-Christian times, with legend holding that King Solomon’s fleets bartered on its shores. Galle entered European history when storm winds pushed the Portuguese captain Lourenço de Almeida to its coastline in 1505.

The Dutch East India Company displaced the Portuguese in 1640. Dutch energies strengthened the Portuguese fortifications and expanded the town within the fort’s wall. Today the Old Dutch Fort at Galle is a world heritage site, preserving the fusion of old world charm and the pleasant amenities of the 21st century.

Among those amenities is The Fort Printers hotel. The hotel is an 18th century building that has been recently restored to an open, airy and inviting accommodation. We typically do not swoon over our travel accommodations, but the Printers was a unique experience with its large open foyer space, 16 foot raw-beamed bedroom ceilings, welcoming ambience and matching service. Over the years the building has been home to the Buddhist Theosophical Society and the Mahinda College. This academic background is reflected in the naming of the five guest rooms. We stayed in History; Rich and Marion in Arts.

After a pleasant breakfast served in the inner open-air courtyard, we set out to explore the winding streets of the fort city. At the Laksana Gem Shop, Helen purchased a stunning six stone blue sapphire ring with a center of small diamond chips. Rich and Marion did some antiquing at the Historical Mansion Art Gallery and the other shops inside the fort. Despite the interesting objects on display, the best goods appear to have been purchased long ago.

A walk along the fort ramparts is a “must” adventure. This 90 minute stroll gave us ample time for viewing the beautiful clear waters that wash against the rocky fort foundations. There were stops at the lighthouse and old clock tower and diversions into the fort interior to the Old Dutch Reform Church and other interesting buildings. One special treat was a ride in the 1945 little Morris Minor perennially parked just outside the front gate of our hotel. With some finesse and flexibility, three of us (Marion – front, Jay & Helen back) squeezed into this British motorcar of a bygone era for an evening driving tour of the old fort city. Adventures are frequently unexpected and come in any size.

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