Sri Lanka – Day Trip Adventures

With the Printers Hotel as home base for two nights we explored the sights along the coastal highway just north of Galle. The first thing that struck us as we traveled the roads with towns 1.3 meters above sea level was that we were traveling where the waters of the 2004 Asian tsunami had raged.

Prosperity appeared to be the order of the day. The road was in excellent shape and filled with vehicles and people. Most shops were well stocked and busy with commerce. In contrast, we could see the many broken shells of concrete buildings that had lined the road prior to the tsunami. Sometimes even the shell of the building was gone and only a concrete slab remained where once meals were cooked and family life was alive. Our driver Joseph, who accompanied relief workers in 2005, spoke to us of the devastation wrought by what now appeared to be a placid sea. We drove about two kilometers inland where Joseph noted the waters had roiled. Rusting railroad rails could be seen twisted about coconut trees. We visited uprighted battered railroad cars that fleeing victims mistook for refuge. Hard to believe that such events took place in this sun-soaked paradise.

Further up the coast we visited the stilt fishermen of Sri Lanka. To be honest, our encounter was less National Geographic and more National Inquirer. Despite our very early morning start, we were unable to find any fishermen perched on their slender pole seats out in the surf. Our driver Joseph inquired with the locals and discovered “no fish today” was the reason. With the aid of a few exchanged rupees, the fishermen donned their fishing garb, waded into the water and proceeded to “fish” as our camera shutters snapped.

After a quick visit to a silk emporium and batik tie dying factory, we visited a local hand looming operation. With steady endeavor using only her hands and feet, a single woman working outside in the shade behind an old shed, fed cotton thread to and fro producing about 2 meters of cloth per day. Paid 100 Sri Lankan rupees ($1.00) per meter of woven cotton, we marveled at her stamina and genteel ways with us. For the privilege of taking her photo, we gave her a day’s wages before departing.

We were soon off to the glass bottom boat ride to view the coral of the near-shore reefs. Unfortunately, due to bleaching actions several years ago compounded by the tsunami, the former brilliant coral was replaced with broken and muted grayish color coral. The water clarity, however, was unparalleled. As we motored about we could see colorful parrot fish and schools of barracuda swimming among the reefs.

In Ambalangoda, known for its carving of ceremonial masks in soft kadura wood, we visited shops where ritual masks of today and yesteryear were on display. There were masks of gods, demons, evil spirits, birds and animals. The carving of abnormally raised eyebrows, bulging eyes, protruding teeth and cheek-bones painted in bright colors no doubt carries significant meaning. For us it was journey though a world of art and the unsolved mystery of that art. More adventure in paradise.